Combines Problems feeding wheat into feeder throat

Sounds like the dealer might be right. The feeder slats should clear the feeder face by a max. of 1-1_2 inches. If the chain is too short and the slats clear by more than the max. dimension, the chain won't be able to take the material away from the head. There is a picture and explanation in your operators' manual.

I had a 1660 and had to add auger flighting extentions to help in feeding.

Hello everyone, while we are on this subject, The wheat in the "thumb" of Michigan is about ready. It is supposed to rain this weekend (lord knows the weather personal not always to be right!) so I hope the comes down nice, we could use some, just as long as we don't get hail! Anyways, I am going over our 1660 for the last time before wheat and I had a couple of questions as well since this subject was brought up. We ran this machine in soybeans last fall so that was the last crop to go through it. We combined wheat last spring with it (did a nice job) and I can't find the settings that I wrote down, but I know the manual was close. My questions are: 1.) What position should the drum stop be in, top, middle, or bottom, for wheatIJ It is in the middle now. 2.) Also, the block that stops the feeder drum from going up (rock protection) is in the lowest position (max. rock protection) and I was wondering if it is necessary to let it "float" more for wheat, or if it will work good thereIJ 3.) The rotor belt has a slight crack in one spot and I was wondering when everyone determines when to replace their rotor belt. I think that is about it for now! ;-) Thanks.

We had this same problem in beans while back, plugging between the header auger an feeder drum, we added a half link extending chain foward, And the main problem was changing the pitch or when fingers protrude on auger,Mine are set to where at 12oclock positoin there all the way out, and i was cutting 60 bushel wheat at 5 1_2 mph with a 1680 and 25ft head

What crop were you having problems with and did the extensions actually solve the problemIJ How did you install the extensionsIJ Did you have to drill a hole in the auger or did you use an existing holeIJ Which header are we talking hereIJ 1020IJ Thanks for any info!

Middle hole for front drum is most common position. How deep is the crack in the beltIJ The drive belt(3 rib) or the driven beltIJ

So adding the half link didn't help or did itIJ Changing the fingers, do I understand right, there is an angle adjustment and an adjustment to change timing and extent of how far they stick outIJ Is setting the fingers just a trial and error process IJ Thanks foe info!

Yes as you assummed the half link in the feeder chain didnt make any noticable difference,You can adjust the pitch of the fingers on the wobblebox side of header there is a tube with 2 - 1_2 bolts that you loosen an move the center tube on that end of header that changes auger finger pitch,, just play with ajustment till you see a noticble difference,its sounds to simple to work i thought so but it will make a big improvement

It is on the driven belt (the one solid v-belt with grooves). It has a crack in it about 3_8" but from the top of one of the grooves. The outer belt (which I know is the strongest) is still good though. It went through dry beans so do you think it will be easier on it for wheat by turning a faster rpmIJ I think the person before us engaged it at a high rpm, becuase that can cause this problem too. The manual shows how to do it but how long does it usually take to replace this beltIJ

I feel that as long as you can still get your high rpm's there is no need to change a belt. Just buy one and keep it close. We changed 2 last year, lots of tough straw and they just blew. on a 2188 it takes us about 1_2 hour to change a belt, not as tough as it looks. Rod