Combines Gleaner E

It's true the Gleaner E was probobly one of, it not the, best combines of all time. My father sold them by the dozens in the 60's. It is amazing, now, to think of the acres that those little combines ran year after year. There were some fairly large farmers, for the times, that used the little machines and got along very well. Today the same size of farmer would not consider a combine even twice the size of the E to be anywhere near a large enough machine.It's too bad that most machines today are not as reliable and cost so little or are as easy to maintain. Those machines were built in a different time, workers who made them were prouder and were happier just to have jobs. The company's seemed to be more interested in having a good product than just something to sell. Of course then A-C was in a good financial situation and there was not the concern of who would own the company or even if there would be a company the next year like there was in the 80's and 90's. Even the dealers seemed to have more of a service oriented point of veiw then, not like now when most people you talk to complain more about their dealer than their combine.Just more rambling by notillr

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On the farm I work on in the summer, we have an E.

tuff one here.. don't do the diesel or 4 row 30" big trouble here. I used to have a E by the way - well dad did- 1st thing is rev up the 226ci engine by going to the gov spring control on top of the gov hsg. and hold the screw and tighten down on the jam nut. this raises the 70236565 adj. screw.- stop at 2000 rpm high idle. The next area is cylinder bars. the wide spaced K bars will work. look at some of the other posts as to this area. Now here's your challenge.. first is your sickle speed - corn hd speed. speeding the engine up is going to help but you will need about 10% more speed as this will be your limiting factor. You will have to do some digging in the sprocket pulley area here BUT- NOW!!! you really need to get the wooden raddle out.. this is going to be a problem forever. the false floor and raddle_sprockets out of a K will work. The fabrication of the walker screens will be an asset. If you do stay with the wood raddle PUT THE COB SHIElD in and make sure it's adjusted right for corn. Gee I remember nightmares in this area ..... This old gal is getting some age on her so anything can and problably will go wrong when you push her but if you enjoy the challenge..... A neighbor once shelled 2000 bu of corn in a E one lONG day... was a tuff nut in its day...hmmm , if your still runnin the E its probably holdin up better 'n me.

Tbran: Thanks man. I really appreciate the advice. I have also bought a rotary air screen for the radiator. Would the hydraulic pump support a chaff spreaderIJ

Can't help you on the year, however on the corn heads I can. When you go shopping for an E head, good luck. They tend to be a little hard to find. You must get an E-series head for it. They made then in 2-row wides and 3-row narrows. Ex. E-234, E-238 (2-row),E-330 (3-row). The header drive was different on an E than it was on say an A2 or K. The E has a belt drive while they have a chain. Hope this helps. Scott

We have an orange 330 corn head we modified to fit an "E" for sale, good condition, best offer.

It is probably similar to the E in the pictures I took October, 1999 in East Central Indiana, courtesy of Jeremy's website. The two row cornhead is still attached to the combine and worked when last run in 1990. The elderly farmer's name is Herman Rodeffer. His phone number is 765-766-5418.

We have a couple 2 row wide heads for the E. Also

Just bought a 13 ft. straight head in excellent shape for $500 Cdn. It's true the early E series heads were belt drive but the later E series such as fits my E3 were chain drive same as K and K2's. Be sure you get the early E series with belt drive for your rig. I bought this head thinking E heads were E heads but not so. Had to convert from belt drive to chain drive. Not expensive but time consuming. Required new sprocket on end of header drive shaft, pulling original pulley drive off, new keyways, etc. You would have to do the reverse if you buy the later series head. Sizes are all standard for rows though. Hope this helps. Jamie