Combines corn header

dutch

Guest
I've seen ad's on the net for 16 row 22" cornheads and 12 row 20".
 

Harvest_Dog

Guest
I know there is an attachment made by Bicth that allows you to attach a JD header to a Gleaner. I don't have any idea how to contact them, but they might have something that can help you if you are able to browse and find there contact.
 

farmermike

Guest
you want Harv's farm supply. Try this address: http:__www.harvsfarmsupply.com_
 

ken

Guest
I have the hook up off an n corn head. I took it off and made one up for my r5. Don't know if it will bolt onto your hugger head or not. If interested let me know. ken
 

John

Guest
The later model N had the same hook-up as will accept the R_hugger head. I own a Series 3 N6 and it has what is known as the long throat on it and it takes the late N and R series heads. If you find a later N or R and exchange the throat you should be good to go.
 

Tom_Russell

Guest
We will start corn today so tomorrow I will know for sure but I think we have been running 1 to 1.12 in front and a little wider in the rear. You do not want the front wider than the rear or cobs will wedge between the plates. You want these small cobs to fall through. One of these years Gleaner manuals will get an update on stripper plate clearance to reflect the size of todays cornstalks Tom in MN
 

PETE

Guest
I adjusted my stripper plates in this year and used a 15_16" socket at the top and a 7_8" at the bottom. That gave me about 1.125" in the front and a tight 1.25" at the back. It really made a difference, very little if any shelling at the head in 17-19% corn. Just a reminder to anyone who is considering doing this to make a mark on both sides of the plate to make sure you move them in evenly and if the plates have not been moved in in a long time to soak the adjusting bolts with penetrating oil first and then back the bolts out a bit with an impact. The vibration from the impact along with the penetrating oil breaks up the rust on the threads keeping you from twisting the bolt off. I twisted three of them off until I figured this out. Pete Hinrichsen
 

560man

Guest
Were the shafts properly lined up with the shaft under the bottom of your feederhouseIJ If not, it could cause some twisting, etc. Also if the hex parts of the feederhouse shaft were worn they might be forcing the coupler and header shaft away from the feeder. Hope you get it figured out!
 

Unit_2

Guest
little Al, Are your stalk roll knives in good shape and adjusted correctlyIJ I've broken my share of that same shaft on my 1000 series corn heads. It usually happens when my knives are getting dull and I want to finish the season with them. I always carry a coupling for that shaft in the combine. A lot of times it will break right in the middle and I can just slip that coupling on and be cutting again in five minutes. Not a cure but a quick fix. The part number for that coupling is 176537C2 K.A.
 
 
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