Combines 1020 header

larry

Guest
I have a 30' 1020. As far as I'm concerned it's the cat's meow for cutting beans. . . and I cut in terraced ground, too. Is the arm loose on the potentiometer on your headerIJ Are the potentiometer adjustments in the cab set properlyIJ Something's wrong with your system and it isn't the design of the header! I don't care if you have red or green or any other color, you'll have problems with any machine. An old adage is "the devil you know may be less troublesome than the one you don't. Get rid of this demon and a worse one may take its place."
 

Prussman_Farms

Guest
Possible that the potentiometer is for the 2100 and 2300 series combies. They use a different style for the 1600 series. So if you are running a 1600 series on a newer head your combine will not read your potentiometer. Not true with the field tracker they are the same. Also have you tried moving your face plate forward this will allow you cut closer to the ground and maybe help in feeding.
 

shellman

Guest
Couple of comments. Is the header newIJ If so paint could be part of your feeding problem. Try slipkote on the header floor until is scours. Make sure that the strippers in the rear of the header are adjusted properly. If this is a 30 ft do not try to adjust the auger once the sun has come up and hit the auger. It will distort but run true after about 30 minutes. Play with finger timing also. Watch reel height. If the arms which drop from the reel mount to the auger will raise the auger with the reel up. All I can think of for feeding right now. Cutting height can be really affected by face plate angle. Should be about 10 degrees foreward at the top measured in the field with the header in operating postion. Can't stress this being done in the field and not on concrete in the yard.
 

Justin

Guest
All this sounds to familiar. We had a ton of problems with feeding as well what we didi was buy an Air Reel. The air pushes the crop right back to the auger so there is no bunching and it seems to pick up more crop per acre we figured about 2 bushels more. You can check this product out at the Crary Web page. Hope this helps.
 

canuck

Guest
What kind of knife are you running.I've seen the inch and a half system give similar problems due to the longer bolts used on the holddowns.If you really wanna fly try the stainless steel bottom kit available through your dealer.Cant understand why this isnt standard.Never had to use my reverser even once last year due to plugging from bunching.Simply amasing
 

tj

Guest
The fore and aft should be very simple. You can buy the necessary brackets and Cyls. from your local dealer. The hydraulic tubing should already be in the upper tube of the header to accomodate this change. You will need a total of six hyd. hoses, (two for each cyl. and two for quick disconnects at the feader house). These also can be purchased at Case IH. Are you changing from the cable operated auto header (possible on a 1020, anyoneIJ)to the electric height controlIJ If so, this should be simple if your 1688 is equiped with the auto header function. Your 1020 head has been modified to operate with the cable so it is just a matter of returning it to it's original set-up. The potentiometer needed is very inexpensive and the dealer should readily have the necessary parts. Whatever your set-up is, the updates are pretty simple and inexpensive. You will be pleased with the results. Good luck! tj
 

likesmxbutdrives8420

Guest
thanx man it does have the cable operated auto height We really like the newer combine compared to the older in the wheat. and are looking forward to beans
 

iaremec

Guest
increase down pressure on your springs. i usually see it the opposite.
 
 
Top