Combines chopper

tbran

Guest
Please note: Chopper knives are about 120 degree angle. When worn any,,, I mean any,,reverse them or change them when in any crop with moisture or weeds. Any rounding of edges is not allowed. 99% of the time a combine stops up in the walker area it is due to worn chopper blades......been there , done that ,,, got the splinters to prove it. Also if you are in any rocks do not use the reman hard surfaced blades. They are too hard and will break and will throw chopper out of balance and break up sheet metal. Just another thought
 

Silver_Bullet

Guest
Depending on your harvesting window and yields, of course, I would say you would be more timely with an l2 or l3. 900 acres on an M, in my opinion would be about max. I'm not saying it couldn't be done but you would be working it pretty hard.
 

mo_farm

Guest
I would look at the bigger machine. I run about the same corn and soybean acres through my M3 and it's about all you can get over with out having to worry about crop losses due to the crop being in the field to long.
 

ruben

Guest
Thanks for the help.I would love to buy a R50 but cant find one in the price range.Do you know of any around southeastern south dakota or western iowaIJThanks for the help.
 

IlOVEGREEN

Guest
MAY AS WEll TAKE IT COMPlETElY OFF. MAKE SURE YOU DO WITH SOMTHING WITH THE STRAW CHOPPER MONITER. IT WIll BUZZ IF YA DONT. WE PUT A PIECE OF WIRE IN THE CONNECTION. ITS A HEAVY BUGGER, SO IT IS A 2 MAN JOB. GOOD lUCK
 

Duane

Guest
Yes, take it off. I have tried to just remove the spreader fins and the sickle sections that go into the front of the chopper body but that does not work. The straw is still chopped up too much for good recovery and it probably takes just as much time to do changeover. When I first bought one of my 7720 II's used someone had made a hinge system on the chopper to allow it to pivot down and a support arm was added to keep it from swinging - didn't look like a good idea to me so I put it back to factory mounting.
 

Hooter

Guest
Do you think a 1480 would have the horsepower to drive a flail chopperIJ If it did the best drive option would be the standard genuine chopper drive as you know it will work and parts are readily available.
 

john

Guest
Redekop makes one to fit the axial flow combines seen one at an auction.Claimed it would use 25 hp
 

steve_farmer

Guest
Only problem with the Redekop chopper is the $6000 it costs. I believe they drive off a pulley attatched to the back countershaft pulley on the rotor drive, then use a 90 degree gear box to drive 2 belts. Where does the IH factory chopper drive fromIJ It must be different from the beater drive. As for power concerns, I overhauled my 436 and converted it to a 466 (different crank,pistons and injectors) and increased it 15 h.p. over the standard 210 to 225 h.p. The service manager at the IH dealer said they routinely increase the 466 10% or 25 h.p. so I feel ok with this. The 436 had 190, so the power should work out. If we could figure out a relatively inexpensive (cheap) way to pull this off, it could help a lOT of farmers have one less headache. Fun talking to you guys!
 

larry

Guest
You can use the factory chopper pulley to drive the redekop chopper. If the combine doesn't have on then you can go with thier gear box kit. They are not cheap but every guy I talked to who owns one told me they work great. If you do notill etc. and want a nice 30ft+ even spread of fine straw and chaft they are very good.
 
 
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