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The only time I use the turning brakes is if one wheel looses traction. I never use them for turning. However, I tend to agree with you on their ineffectiveness. I dont use turning brakes in tractors either. Tom Russell
Kurt, I have not seen the factory slope kit but I saw a picture in the latest hugger operator manual. It is a piece of flat iron about 38" X 14" or at least that is the dementions I used when I made one. It fastens between auger and feed chain to eliminate the obstruction between header and feed housing. The cobs can flow a lot better with that area smooth. The hump kit fastens on the flat rock door. It is a arch shaped piece and it improves feed to cylinder by allowing chain to hold material longer and closes gap between door and cylinder so material will get suched in better. It makes the door a lot more sensative to rocks also. The brakes maybe arn't the best but I bet you don't have the steering set for max steer if you need to break that hard. I suggest you adjust your axle out one hole on each side and remove steering stop bolts. Now you would need to adjust steering cylinders to swing wheels all the way to within 1_8" of hitting pad that stop bolts were in. We never send out a machine without giving it max steer. A steering ball fastened on steering wheel work for some people. Hope this helps. Dan
11-04-1998, 11:10 PM
Kurt We have taken the stop bolts out of our R62 and it nearly makes it turn as good as our old N7 ( they
I don't hardly ever use them also when cutting wheat or soybeans, but it seems I need them a lot when picking corn. It seems that I also have some tight end rows or I am to close to a ditch that makes it hard to get turn around. I'm pretty sure that we have the wheels set to maximum steer. It just seems that as much as we pay for these combines that we shouldn't have to stand on the brakes.
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