Combines What to do with the old l2

look thru this talk series. lots of advice on conventional Gleaners . Check settings and Mods. Won't repeat most but 1. Wide spaced cyl. bars are the only way to go. 2. If you are concerned about crackage check out the wide spaced non-hard surfaced bars. Might have to have someone make a set (Trimpe-Seymour Ind. and others do great job. Will recon yours also) another option is to get hard surfaced bars and grind smooth especially the front edge. Most hard surfaced bars are not hardened all the way down and after serveral hours will develope a "tit" that is tuff on corn but actually helps in most other crops. 3. lapped filler bars are a must. 4. Try the high profile concave bars. n71172823in corn. 4. Concave filler strips are avail and will give more agressive threshing if you have small cob pieces with corn left on them. 5. Speed cracks; start at 3_4" and lower rpm til sample at accecptable level then lower cyl. clearance til you clean off cob. 6. Check cyl. level and grate level. Check rear concave door and make sure door is not warped or broke at place the two large bolts attach rear door to throat if you notice cyl clearance is off side to side. Be CAREFUl! REAR DOOR IS HEAVY! Refer to op man. 7. Another option I used to use on hard to thresh full season hybs. was to adapt a set of concave rasp bars off a F or G onto the doorof l-M's . Just maybe a tad better than hi-profile but not a bolt in. Did get me out of a couple of jams on popcorn. Again check out the other tips here. Glad to be of assistance. Send all your checks to...no wait I was having illusions of a TV minister, sorry bout that.....keep on gleanerin...tbran

Through your Geaner Dealer you can get a wide spaced cylinder bar that is not as wide as the "every second tooth out" bar. This will allow the threshing needed for the wheat you grow. The AGCO part n is SBA0480. Gerald at Sunnybrook.

Be sure when zeroing your concave to cylinder that you check the very back. I have seen many machines that right rear is off by nearly 1_4 inch. If it is off you need to cut mount that holds concave up into position and reweld after zeroing out. It is quite hard to check rear clearance so you may want to remove beater to open things up. There is no adjustment to move cylinder or concave fore or aft and that is why you have to cut and reweld the mislocated mount. Hope this helps. Dan