Combines messing with my auger

oldstruck

Guest
Also, I installed a Stewart Steel Extender on our auger. I will let you know what I think of it later this season. Already it was easy to install. BUT.... We'll see what happens.
 

NDDan

Guest
Don't remember which model machine you have but at any rate you have lost any cushioning affect built into cylinder to prevent violent touchdown into saddle. Plus it will be putting alot of pressure on chain, swivel, auger tube, and sadddle even if no grain in tube. I'm afraid you are going to see something give way with some use.
 

sidekick

Guest
My F2 has a "stop" welded on back side of swivel that controls where the auger stops.I added a little chunk to "stop" to make it stop about 6in higher.Works good.Don't know how yours is made.
 

oldstruck

Guest
Hi Dan! R42 1998, like Arrg52 got this year. Why I asked this, is I keep reading in the service book for the combine, and it talks about adjusting the chain. The book says to have .5 to 1.5 inches of play in the chain. Says nothing about adjusting for the cylinder. I spent a day monkeying with the chain adjustment. I put it back where it was at to begin with and it did not seem to make much difference, then put it where I wanted it which was only about a chain link from where it was orgininally. I guess I am a little leary about putting a 1.5" stop inside the cylinder, scoring the wallsIJ If that is where it is suppose to go. We know of another gleaner guy that adjusted his chain several years ago and has no problem with it. Well I will give it a try for a while and let everyone know. Thanks! Oh, our beans are not doing so well on the hills.
 

NDDan

Guest
The plug kit fits in end or base of cylinder. It actually replaces the currant end cap. It prevents the cylinder rod from retracting quite so far. The N's and l's had a very similar system to your 42. We make sure cylinder is fully extended while auger tube is resting in saddle. We then take all the slack out of chain. The ls and earliest Ns were a little trickier with slack adjusters on top and bottom idlers. We adjusted them so bottom chain was tight while auger was resting in saddle. This helped prevent crunching the saddle down because the cylinder would help support it. Good luck
 

oldstruck

Guest
Morning Dan, So there is a replacement cap for the cylinder. How much is oneIJ I got all the slack I could out of the chain by using the adjustment recommended in the book. I did notice that the slack adjusters (rollers) were made to be in a fixed position on our machine. I had a heck of a time taking slack out using that 3 bolt clamp that is on the swivel, then getting it to line up where I wanted it to stop. I actually did not go as far as other have. The Stewart Steel Extender is ok. I think I better post something about it on another topic. let me know, Thanks!
 

NDDan

Guest
The cylinder plug kit was $120US under old number. We sold our last one of them so will need newer one at about $200. Newer one has new improved way of retaining ball check that is built into plug. By the way can you tell me how much of the square shaft is exposed next to universal joint. I had a guy or two install stewart steel extenders onto their newer machines with 14" unload system and two inches of square shaft was exposed. This add two inches to the dead area in universal joint area and is a definite no no in some crops. We had to cut Stewart steel support bearing loose and relocate basically two inches toward universal joint.
 

oldstruck

Guest
Hi Dan, Do you want to know with the auger up or downIJ Actually I have no square shaft exposed. We have a 98 R42, the auger is the 11 1_2" diameter one. I am still concerned about what you said on the return to the saddle. On how hard it sets down. Is it suppost to be soft. I ask this due to it does not seem to be setting any harder than before I adjusted the chain. An on that note. I re-read the service book and the chain is suppose to have .5 to 1.5 inches of slack, ours had about 2.5 so when I took the slack up I made it stop just before the normal stop would be. And actually the tab that the sensor for starting the auger unload lines up better now that originally. As far as the Stewart Steet Extender. For us it was a good thing. I'm much less tense pulling up to our grain cart. BUT, with out adjusting the stop on the auger the extender only gains 2 feet horizontally, not into the air. So far I am ok with this set up, but I am interested in that cylinder stop. Thanks, Dan, If you have an email address, I have a few pictures.
 

oldstruck

Guest
OOOPS! I wanted to mention. We also installed a new auger (flighting and stem) Purchased from Abline Machine. I had to trim the edge of the bottom foot or so of the flighting as not to hit inside the tube of the unloading auger. One of those things that when you fix or repair something, make sure everything is in working order before going to the field.
 

NDDan

Guest
Won't matter much up or down. You should be able to see little if any square shaft so it sounds like yours is OK. There is a cushioning affect at both ends of cylinder stroke. This is done with check valve and orfices within cylinder end caps. I just wouldn't want your auger to be set back into saddle and still cylinder is tring to keep pulling it further. Or at least until you let go of button or auto timer shuts off. You may not of adjusted chain enough to totally get rid of inward cushioning affect. Just thought I should make you aware of this. I'd opt for proper cylinder end cap and then adjust chain with auger resting in saddle while you are sure cylinder is fully extended. Good luck
 
 
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