Combines NDDAM replacement feed floor w o hump

We couldn't agree more! What an improvement. We have said that we could nearly take the chain off of the reverser now that we have this kit in. What a shame that it wasn't in from the beginning! Thanks Dan!

Thanks guys. You had me nervous about opening this post with the little typo error on nick name. Good to hear it is going good. A few guys have overlooked or stoped just a little short of tips or suggestions within floor instructions. I'd like to mention a few of these things now. Be sure belts are tentioned properly. Front left corn varible must have .100" gap between the front sheaves. Also if it has ever been shorted of regular grease the sliding hub could be getting wobbled out and or jaws scored up from running dry. Measure the distance between front sheaves at OD toward the front and toward the rear. If more than 1_8" narrower at the back you could have a wobbling sheave which can not keep belt tentioned properly. Next the front right belt that is tentioned up with push spring and the strap iron right next to spring is the gauge at which spring length should be set at. Another thing is the tention of chains and rear is most important. I send pipes to put over springs at rear location. I like the springs to be tentioned up to 4.9" instead of the factory setting of 5.1". The pipes are cut accordingly so you just need to snug up spring to demention of pipe. Other wise a mark on side of combine that is set to 4.9" will help you quickly tention chains without looking for tape measure. Next I do like the 7" rear tention drum for the extra clearance they give under the chain. Modifing height blocks is most important if using or keeping the 8" rear drums in place. Especially if your 8" drums have the W-ring chain guides. A very important thing I have come accross if you have the 7" drums in an '01 or newer machines is to be sure you have the rear feed tention drum straps in front bolt location no matter which drum you have installed. Using the rear bolt location can allow front chain to get into rear chain before you realize you need to take half link out. This will stop the chain about as soon as you start to push the machine. Next I would suggest it would be a good idea to check out the slip clutches as suggested in the instructions. We just fill them with springs if they are missing some. We have not added any shim washers. Rear slip clutch is about as important as front. Often times it is the rear clutch that slips a few cogs and then front one slips out completely. Thus it is the front one that gets the most wear and could have a bunch of broken springs if it has been slipped to death. Next you can speed the chains up a bit. Chains were speeded up a bit in '93 or '94 and then again in '06 or '07. I haven't been speeding chains up anymore after the floor mods but it will give you more capacity if needed. Pulley and belts from newer machines can be put on the older machines no problem. Finally none of this will fix a header that is slug feeding the feeder but it will make it much more forgiving. Tips on header feeding can be found if just searching back aways. Thanks and have a safe happy harvest.