Combines torque limiter clutch

when shimming these, be sure shim does not induce coil bind. We put in only 3 'kits' total and reassemble and then slip it to make sure coils do not lock up and thus lock it down so as not to totally eliminate slippage. Then reassemble the rest. Yes some 'bullets' had double springs. Clutches are spec'd with different slip rates. This is how it is done.

Well today I got to cut some tough beans with the washered up clutch, wow when it chokes now it's tight!!!relly wish I could just get one yr. that the beans cut great!! need a frost then things will work better. but with the yield we are getting I guess I shouldn't complain Bob

Spend the $500 or whatever on the floor kit and get rid of the stupid hump under the front drum of the rear feeder. We used to choke our feeder house several times in the morning then once or twice in the afternoon followed by another round as the dew set in. Maybe 6-10 times a day, more if it was cloudy or green stems were present. We just put that in our 72 and it is short of amazing. No difference in corn, but in beans it makes as want a bigger head. We have cut 500 acres of beans and while I don't run the combine my brother thinks he has run the reverser twice all year. The limiting factor now is the cross auger in the head and the rotor. The cross auger can slip without warning, but is an easy fix and the rotor will let you know before you get in too much trouble. Even if you slug it the rotor cleans out easier that the feed chains if you can't back it out. We shimmed up the clutches and while it helps when they do slug there will be more times the reverser won't back it our and in our case we broke two rear feed conveyour shafts.

does Dan make these floor kits for the 52'sIJ and what is involved in putting it inIJ thanks Bob

I think he does, but don't quote me. Anyway you remove the throat and the front drunm of the rear feeder. Split the rear chain and get it up out of the way. Then you basically cut around 2 feet out from the front part of the rear feeder which includes the hump or valley. Then weld in his new piece. We did do his mod on the throat which involves cutting the sides loose and lowering ai a couple inches and re welding. Two guys could do it in a day. A plasma cutter makes it nicer. I'm not sure if it will make a difference in wheat and from what he have harvested in corn so far I'm not sure it will be noticable there unless this down corn feeds poorly. But I can tell you in beans it makes a world of a difference. Kehrers in Albers are familiar with it, though I had to order the parts from Hurtt Eq(NDDAN). The AGCO rear feed floor still has the hump. Do not let them talk you into that one. AGCO is supposed tochange the replacement pieces over to the same as NDDAN's kit as well as what is in the new models, but I think they want to sell all the old parts first.

WOW it has been hard to get you a message. First time I responded my internet went down. Then went to shop and responded but I saw today it didn't post. Anyway I have kit for R52s. It isn't quite of complete of kits I have for R62s with three strand chains for I leave out some fillers for inbetween poly skids in front feed. I'm not alltogether sure they are needed but they helped prior to floor mods so I opted to include with kits for larger machines. I only have a couple of them small machines around hear and someday I'll get the measurement to include panel for small machines as well. The kit I have for small machines do include the 18" long humpless floor and a few other goodies. I have in my instructions to replace the rear section of front floor with the heavier plate from Gleaner which has a revised location for rubber seal. This is optional and I suggest you get from dealer or have one fabricated if that floor is getting thin. In your case the dealer should be able to find the piece in R55 parts manual. I also like the factory piece for it is 1_4" thick. Bad deal about this is with my plans you will be cutting 3" off this new piece to make it easy to install at rear of front feed. You'll see why you need to cut 3" off the front of this replacement piece when you get to the job.