Combines rebuild F 313 head

  • Thread starter Soy_Breeding_Boy
  • Start date

Soy_Breeding_Boy

Guest
Go with the SCH system. With Roller guides it is maintenence free and very easy on the pocketbook compared to others.
 

posum

Guest
I agree , the SCH cutter bar and SCH pro drive are the best that you can do. Smoothest setup I have run or witnessed. I replaced the standard feather sheets with my version of the raised feather sheet. Replaced all ball joints , added poly skids. If you want more info I'll give you my telephone number.
 

cott

Guest
Thanks for the responses, SCH it is. If you don't mind, I would like to talk with you about the feather sheets, as my head over flexedIJ and the sheets seperated, so the last 80 acres has been harvested with the head locked up. Not any fun. greg
 

Gleamer

Guest
You may want to check into the price os the SCH system. Went on their website and found the standard kit @ $895.00 for 13'. Bearing style must be more. If you standard guards are not worn out I would go with Crary knives 10 teeth per inch or std Agco knives, you are looking at $7.00 per foot this way, under 100 dollars.. You wont be able to over run a std set up in good beans with an F3 unless you can run more than 4-5 mph. These new systems do have advantages when you get to 25' and wider and a machine that can push 6-7 mph. Unless your guards are gone which will cut 1000's of acres I would put in Crary or Agco knives and the money you save go to feather sheets, bat tines, fingers, guides, and bearings for the auger. No disrespect to any other opinions, just the practical coming out of me...
 

cott

Guest
Thanks for the thoughts. I'm limping along until harvest is finished. Afterwards, will tear apart and see what we really have. Even with head in locked position, wobble drive end out of alignment_blade head not shimmed properly, causing 1st 2 teeth to break within 30 minutes of replacement, and a broken guard, can you say turn rightIJ I really have enjoyed running this machine. Friend runs CaseIH 1688, I hope to cut beans with him, next fall. greg
 

Gleamer

Guest
Sounds more like some damage happened before you got it, something out of line vertically to cause this, check spring rate holding up wobble box + look at flex bar itself to make sure there is not a bend in it, they are only about 3_8" thick and could have been run into something to put a kink in it. Seriously, ran a 315 on an M2 for 8 seasons of 140 acres a year and never replaced a section and would have run another 4 seasons before looking to replace a handful of sections in the cutterbar. Alway did take time to look it over for bent guards or binding situations that would cause heat.. You should be able to unhook the bar from the wobble and pull it in and out by hand easily, if it binds, find out why..
 
 
Top