Combines Hose ModIJ

I used a 3" hose this year on my N315 flex head and have been very satisfied with the results. Every now and then I will get a little build up on the ends and send a small slug through, but most of the time the beans feed great. Now my biggest problem is plugging the dischage beater (no chopper) with tough bean straw as I can push my N6 a little harder. Pete Hinrichsen

I have installed both this fall on 2 different headers can't see any difference between 2" or 3" use what ever you have around the farm 3" is pricey if you buy it new. Might check with local fertilizer dealer for used or discarded hose. If you can find a source of used hose it does not have to be all one length I used several odd lengths and it worked fine.

Take a look at the discharge beater on the newer machines. They have straight blades that are smooth or knotched. The knotched edge out will convey tough material way better but could wrap up in very tough straw. I'm going to bet that your beater has the rolled back edges and they won't convey straw as well as newer design. You could maybe convert yours to fasten the new style blades to it. Blades need to clear floor by I believe at least 1 5_8". To close to floor will plug all the time. Newest P1s had a double belt drive to beater and a C width belt to jackshaft that drives beater. Feel related pulleys after running hard to feel for abnormal heat of a belt slipping.

3 1_2 inch hose should be ok, we run 3" on our series III 20ft and it works great. Really improved feeding and all but elimated stone_rock ingestion.

How do you fasten the hose so there is no worry about it coming looseIJ thanx

last year I installed 2 1_2 OD spiral type suction hose on a 525 bean head. For straps I had a sheet metal shop shear 12 x 1 strips of 16 (IJ) ga galvanized that I bent to shape and attached under the hold down screws. I can't really say I noticed any improvement in feeding. I am going to give the hose another try this year before removing it. Maybe the beans last year didnt do whatever it was they were supposed to do in a normal year. Tom in MN

I used a u-bolt from a muffler clamp and cut one side off so it looked more like a j-bolt. I then ran a nut all the way up the thread and put it through a guard bolt hole with another nut on the bottom. Then simply adjust the nuts so the bolt holds the hose securely but not to crimp it. It worked really good and was a lot cheaper than raised feather sheets. I think I used 10 or 12 bolts on my 820 head. John in NE

Tom - you need to go up to a 3" O.D. hose to make it work well. We started out trying a 2 1_2" milk suction hose and noticed only minimal improvement. We took it off and found 3" hose and it made a world of difference. You wouldn't think that 1_2" would make that much difference but it sure does. Find some before the season starts and give it a whirl before you give up on the hose mod. Good luck- Tom langan

I used 3" conduit clamps and didn't have a bit of trouble.

Thanks for your advice, Tom. The problem is finding 3 OD hoseit isnt available at the places I called. I can buy 2.5 or 3.5 OD but not 3. Where did you find 3 OD hose, or do you know the brandIJ If 3 isnt available, would you recommend 3.5IJ For clarification, the galvanized strips I sheared were 1 x 12 X 14 ga and not 16 ga I mentioned in the other post.