Combines Grain bin repair

Unit_2

Guest
Ed, I had the same problem on a 2188. The repair I did was indended to be temporary just to get me to the end of harvest, but I was surprised how good it lasted. I went to an auto parts store and bought a product called QuikSteel. It is a steel-reinforced epoxy putty that claims to harden like steel. I spread that over the worn spot about a 1_4 thick. After a several hundred acres of wheat the repair looked as good as the day I did it. It was inexpensive and easy to do. I traded the machine off after harvest so I can not say how long it lasted.
 

brad

Guest
I formed a piece of 18 gauge sheet metal and mig welded it into the bottom of the trough. I heard of one guy using formica and liquid Nails to line the entire bottom of both troughs.
 

Ed

Guest
Thanks to you and Brad for your comments. I just bought the combine last August so I wasn't planning on dumping it just yet. I'm also one of (I assume) many who cannot afford a new combine so am more than a little annoyed that the designers don't make these critical, high wear items replaceable. I'm thinking I'll try Brad's idea but using a piece of stainless sheet metal. I think this combine has sat outside a bit (certainly after the dealer received it back) because there is a fair bit of pitting of the trough. The stainless will wear well and not corrode if there is a rain.
 

guru

Guest
we repaired the bottom of our 2388 tank trough in the same place has u..we got a mould made from cardboard and got a piece of stainless steel bent up to the shape..i then removed the triangle cap which runs in the ridge between the two troughs by grinding the spot welds...cut out the floor enough to allow the new plat to drop in overlapping the old by about 3 inchs u should be able to then pick up all the old bolt holes and end up with one weld across the trough which u simple grind smooth so grain doesn't catch on it oh we did remove the augers which come out really easy..this meachine does rice so the repair had to last good luck
 

Hickup

Guest
I have the same problem with a 5 year old 2166 but I have not yet fixed it. I have owned a few 1600 series and never had this problem. The combine has never sat out. The flighting is also worn thin at this spot by the upright.Is there not enough clearance between the auger and the bottom or is it just cheap steel.
 

Ed

Guest
My combine has quite a bit of pitting on the auger trough. I believe it had been back at the dealer's for a year, so it surely sat out in the rain for that long. A bit of grain will aggravate the metal corrosion. Poor metalIJ Maybe part of the problem. I still think good design makes such potential wear spots easy to repair. I cannot find that.
 

beansprout

Guest
On our 1688, we had the same problem. We bought a sheet of the May-Wes plastic and cut it to fit from the angle iron at the front of the trough to about the same place in the rear. We used the large head pop-rivits and then sealed the edge with a small bead of silicone. The slick plastic works very well, especially in light bulky crops such as sunflowers.
 

tbran

Guest
we clean the unit , go to a local heat and air place, take a pattern and have them roll a sheet approx 90% as long as the bin with the little tab for the exit, then silicone seal and drill _pop rivet with at least one rivet per inch at the ends and at intervals in the bottom to hold it down. Can be done with the auger in but is much neater with the auger out, which probably need replacing anyway. Some customers have done this and reported the auger now scrubs, if so just slot the holes on the RH side and raise the brg to clear, usually takes only a 1_6Th or so. It is important to have the piece rolled to conform to the bottom.
 

R_O_M

Guest
tbran, have you considered using some wear resistant stainless steel sheet. Stainless steel sheet comes in lots of grades including some very abrasion resistant grades. It is almost immune to any corrosion from wet grain although it will be much more expensive. Just a thought as that is the way we might consider going if we ever have to replace bin bottom components.
 

vstk

Guest
I have a fabricator build a heavy guage replacment floor from galvanized material. It is the complete length of the bin floor and goes up both side most of the way. I remove the cross auger and most everything else from the bin. I clean all rusted material and remove what needs removed. Then coat the exposed matal with some kind of paint. One end or the other need to be removed to allow the full size sheet to fit go in. The replacment parts have an exact curve and fit very well. I slide the new floor panel in and then the first thing I do is place a carriage bolt on both end right in the center of the bottom and be sure the new panel fits very tight to the bottom. I then start on one end and drill the holes to match the bin end piece.........on the left that would be the elbow. Then there are two rows of 1_4 in all steel pop rivits spaced close together. I have been making them this way since the early 80's and know that it works very well as well as looks nice. Most people can not tell the floor has been repaired without really looking close. Because the piece fits so well and is of a heavy material I dont have trouble with the conveyor rubbing. The fabricator has my patern and can build the panel and ship it if you are interested. It is a little more work than other methods but does look better and seems to last almost forever. Van
 
 
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