Combines unloading auger

redb

Guest
Try swinging your auger in and out while another person grease's it. Do this about every 20-30hrs. I had the same trouble with mine and it works fine now.
 

buckeyegleaner

Guest
we adjust the top idler tight with a 2x4 block between the saddle and tube so when the auger is put back it doesn't slamm into the saddle so hard.
 

Curt

Guest
Thanks for the advice, I think I had it ok the way it was before but it just didn't seem right. Curt
 

T__langan

Guest
The bearing race for the unloader swivel has threaded studs welded to it. When you remove the nuts, the tube and outer half of the swivel comes apart from the innner half - the swivel bearing stays intact unless it is worn to the point where it will open up slightly and you loose your balls - literally! If I remember correctly, the snap ring that holds the ram comes off - remove the hose clamp that holds the rubber boot around the ram, disconnect the hyd. hose, and you can then wiggle the ram out through the rubber boot up into the hopper. That is some of the toughest rubber known to mankind too - it may take some work getting the ram either in or out of it. Maybe some soap to lube it would help, but when we took ours apart, we didn't have soap readily available. Also, it seems there is an air bleed or something threaded into the bottom of that ram that needs to come off to get it through the boot. You don't need to remove all the rivets to get it apart. Good luck!
 

Steve_from_Tn

Guest
We took the inner ring that the balls ride in and turned it 180 degrees. We had to move one of the threaded studs and the hole where you insert the balls. When you take the ring off, you will notice that only one side of it is worn. It only swivels about 180 degrees. The side with the weight on it will be the worn side. This ring costs around $400 more or less. It has worked well for two years.
 

ajco

Guest
bottom of tubeandbottom of bin on my m2 wore out .i did,nt remove cyl - just undid chains andremoved auger.went to local metal fab shop and had 14 guage(longer than width of bin and auger elbow)rolled to fit 3_4 dia. inside bin hole -slid in bin-trimed end to fit auger plateandslit down to bottom inside bin - then flattened the rest of rolled metal to fit bottom of bin andbolted down. then lined bin bottom with 3_16 sheet plastic held down with sheet metal screws and fender washers .used 2pieces overlapped and top end under bin angle irons.i cut bushing holder andrewelded to centre auger in bin outlet hole. rebuilt end of auger next u joint but had to trim to get to turn because it now hit elbow.auger must turn free by hand.
 

ajco

Guest
bottom of tubeandbottom of bin on my m2 wore out .i did,nt remove cyl - just undid chains andremoved auger.went to local metal fab shop and had 14 guage(longer than width of bin and auger elbow)rolled to fit 3_4 dia. inside bin hole -slid in bin-trimed end to fit auger plateandslit down to bottom inside bin - then flattened the rest of rolled metal to fit bottom of bin andbolted down. then lined bin bottom with 3_16 sheet plastic held down with sheet metal screws and fender washers .used 2pieces overlapped and top end under bin angle irons.i cut bushing holder andrewelded to centre auger in bin outlet hole. rebuilt end of auger next u joint but had to trim to get to turn because it now hit elbow.auger must turn free by hand.
 

Dave

Guest
Thanks for info. I have all parts removed and did not loose my balls (sorry). The inner race does not look like it is very wore, but I am going to take to dealer and let them look at it. I ordered all the parts, BOY WAS THAT A BlAST. I had to cut the end off of auger in hopper to get the gear off. Bearing was bad, The bushing on the elbow end was wore almost through and auger was rubbing on bottom of hopper and that is were the damage was worse. I also found the chain that rotates auger tube was almost pulled into. looks like about $2000.00 and all is like new. Man I love this job........
 

ihman

Guest
You probably already know but you can also adjust the tension (support) of the auger. On top you'll see a long threaded rod, possibly you might need to lower the auger a little bit. just a thought
 

JWK

Guest
Just an extra note about the upper gear case. Do you know about a zerk fitting under the small access cover. If that gear case goes out it is a 4+ hour job and big $$ for gear case. JWK
 
 
Top