Combines Engine troubles on our R50

Nobul

Guest
Pull the injector and check the sealing ring before taring into the engine. Did the injectors on mine and the sealing rings provided were a laminated type. 3 blew out within a year. Replace with the solid style and problems solved. Fire the engine at night and you will be able to see the firing around the injector base. just make sure all is clean before re-assembly and don't loose the copper gaskets on the fuel lines. Rob.
 

tbran

Guest
if you have a head 'fire ring' blown, remove the intake and exhaust and that head only. Have the head checkd for warpage and install new fire ring. If the head is not too badly deformed, we use another sleeve, new fire ring secured to it with gasket glue and install head with valve grinding compound between the head and ring and 'lap' the surface of the head to the new ring. This is done out side the engine. This will seat the head to the fire ring. Then final lap the head to the real cylinder jug top as best as can be done since the head can not be turned very much in the engine. Clean. Retorque to specs - 30 foot n's then 45 degrees three times then 30 degrees final. We add another 5 degrees usually. IF the head bolts seem not exactly right , use new ones. IF the old ones will not come out - we work on some fertilizer plant loaders that use deutz units and they are real bears, we heat the block just around the bolt to 300 degrees or so, cool the bolt w_ water and use a rounded u shaped chisel in an air chisel at the base of the bolt to vibrate it as a turned down inpact is used on the head bolt to loosen it. MAy take a while but is 99% successful. Just dont twist off the head bolts. Drilling and tapping aint fun.
 

brad_c

Guest
Thanks tbran. We are at the head bolt stage and so far we've got 1 of the 4. We are thinking it may be the ring. Hopefully we can get it off today to start the healing process soon. Beans are ready.
 

brad_c

Guest
Just an update. We were 2 for 4 in head bolt removal after several hours of lubing, heating, impacting, hammering etc. NOT happy about it but that's where we are. I think they may have used salt water at the factory to make sure those head bolts stayed in. The ring between the head and cylinder is what was leaking and the leak is evident not only on the ring but the adjacent cylinder too. Getting the head checked tomorrow. Also, there was one shim between the block and the sleeve assembly. That was torn from something so we have to put a new one of them on. The hits just keep on coming. SIGH Thanks for the above post tbran - the info is much appreciated. Brad
 
 
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