Combines Did we make a wrong decisionIJIJ

[Gleamer]

With the set up you have, can you rotate your auger excentric to change the entry and exit of the fingers to maybe bring the crop closerIJ Move the Auger back within 3_8" of the bottom stripper railIJ Cut deeper in the crop making for longer trash, might thread it self inIJ Just a few ideas.....

 

[D_Mayes]

Did your new front chain come with some half linksIJ The OEM chain has some in it so you can remove or add as needed to get the front drum spacing where needed depending on what head is on the machine. Check your manual it should tell the proper spacing for front drum to header auger.

 

[NDDan]

I'd lean toward distance from chain to header auger. Slats need to clear auger flighting when chain is stretched to end of self tentioning so you can figure out if you are able to move bolts at back of spring to allow drum to come further ahead. You would have to add appropriate half links. Otherwise to hold straw under the old augers with 4" flighting we have installed an extra channel iron stripper a few inches in front of the existing most forward stripper. When you are able to hold straw under auger and need finger area to feed more material in better we extend four inch flighting to a center line drawn around drum. This sucks the material in and delivers to feed chain so well you can often see the sickle. Don't forget the transition floor between header and feed floor needs to be smooth and level. This filler is adjustable and must not abstruct flow. This is something to look at on newer Gleaner heads for someone decided to fasten stainless steel stripper on top of header floor. This can severly disturb flow from header to feeder. Know wonder many are switching to draper heads. Good luck