tbran
Guest
This is the method of checking out any gas gov. After warm up, disconnect rod from gov to carb at the carb. Hold the rod in your right hand and hold the carb throttle shaft in your left. Have someone crank the engine. The gov should remain in the wide open throttle mode as at idle. (wot) As you slowly increase the rpm to the rated high idle the arm on the gov should slowly move to pull the throttle closed as one can feel with the right hand on the rod. Now with a quick reving up and down, the responsivness of the gov can be checked in the same manner. If all checks out the problem of run away and low rpm is due to either worn lingage, loose linkages, or probably the lENGTH OF THE GOV ROD. If I remember correctly (been a while here) most of the time the rod has to be lengthend. I remember on the old "G"'s even having to weld in an extention or switch out the rod to an all thread. Anyway experiment with the length of the rod between the carb and the gov. lengthen and shorten 1_4 " at a time then fine tune to you degree of response needed.IF the linkages are tight and not worn this will solve your problem. Keep in mind the length of the eyebolt on the gov also can paly a part of repsonsivness, the longer the length the less responsive and vice versa. Too short a distance and the gov will 'hunt' or not maintain a steady RPM; too long and it will be sluggish. As you shorten this length of the sensitivity eyebolt one will have to increase the tension of the spring via the high idle screw and stretch the spring more and again vice versa when lengthening to maintain correct rpm. The gas tractors can benefit form this as well. I have bent a many old D series gov rod to effectivly shorten them and improve performance on old units.