Combines Tr98 elephant earsIJ

[newholland]

Don't know about the ears, but why did you take the feeder house off to align a chainIJ

 

[TRMechanic]

The four identical assist plates closest to the rotor, bolted on with 3_8 bolts should fit the curvature of the auger flighting on the front of the rotor. If they are bent back, some foreign objsect has ran through. The rear assist usually wear the worst. If they are wore down to the auger on the front of the rotor, they are terrible wore down. Usually wore down a quarter of an inch means time to replace. They have some hardsurfacing welded originally and when that is gone the rest wears fast. They front elephant ears are hardly replaced as far as I am concerned. Rasp bars can be replaced through the side access doors. No need to take out the rotors. I went to a place to replace rasp bars on a TR70 in 1980 and they had the rotors out to do it. I didn't say a thing, just put them in and as instructed. How often are you realigning your chainIJ

 

[tv140]

I strongly recommend removing the rotors if you are going to replace the rasp bars. Various reasons why, The tailshafts are probably worn at the bushing area, the bushongs should be replaced, you can't properly shim the rasp bars on the rotor if you replace them in the combine, the rotors should be balanced, and as mentioned - hardsurfacing probably needs to be renewed on the front augers and on the rear separator bars. The small infeed lugs should fit the contour of the auger fairly uniformly. If the rasp bars are not shimmed properly, you will not be able to achieve proper concave adjustments. This can be crucial in crops like spring wheat and flax. Just so you know, the rotor timing can be checked at the rear of the rotors via the openings in the rotor.

 

[Nemotr]

One side chain was off a tooth on the top drive sproket. Only way we could correct was to remove feeder house I thought. Was there a better wayIJ

 

[Nemotr]

Realigining chain: Only once I hope. Previous owner must have installed it that way or neglected the tensioning. Thanks for the info.

 

[newholland]

loosen the chain. Reach in the door on top of the feeder, and put about a 3_4" bolt between the chain and the sprocket. Might have to get the chain in the right place to hold the bolt under the chain. Either that or have someone you really trust bump the reverser till the bolt stays in place. Then run the bolt around the sprocket with the feeder reverser. I've done it without even loosening the chain. Takes 2 minutes.

 

[Ilnewholland]

Or you can do it like me. I use a 3_4 deep well socket and a plastic tie around the chain and then run the reverser myself. After chain jumps back, cut tie. Ilnh

 

[CNHTEK]

The infeed lugs behind the elephnat ears should lay reasonably flat against the rotor flighting and be raised about 1_2" higher thatn the flight. If the lug is out more than 1_8" from the rotor flight it wouldn't be a bad idea to either replace them, or remove them, straighten and resurface them. The rasp bars are easily accessable from the sides. the problem comes in when you go to torwue the bolts up. The mounting bolts must be torqued to 150-160 lbs-ft with red loctite on the threads. It isn't as hard as it may seem though, if you jam a prybar in the dischargte beater you can easily torque the bolts. If you did take the rotors out to change them, it is a good idea to thoughouly clean them and recheck the balance of each rotor.