Combines Any After harvest Questions on the Honey Bee Headers

[cat_man]

Within the first two hours of use. My header adapter was set to low and was right on the ground and being my first year with it wasn't to familiar. I bent that dore that swings open and I noticed after harvest that their is a long green line growing in the feild and I think that it is leaking around that dore on the bottom. After the first couple hours I adjusted the adapter up as far as I could get it but it is still close to the ground. I no that if I staighten out that trap door I will stop that leak on the bottom of the header. I used it on soybeans it did a decent job my header loss was around four bushel per acre on ground that was not rolled. It was dry here and pods were close. I would really like to see a flexible cutter bar on a draper. On the cat I can't get enough float out of it and the header still seems really heavy when in float on the ground. I have my gaurds tilted all the way back and my gauge wheels in the second hole from the top. my skid plate warped and got all pulled down where ever there wasn't a pop rivet. That will have to be replaced next year. I think a larger skid plate would be nice maybe stonger struts on the gauge wheels to add some float. I would like any info on setting that thing up for soybeans next year I really don't want to go to a 30'flex head. I would be interested in any mods that any one knows to improve the 42' in soybeans. still seemed to push rocks instead of floating over. It was not bad at all but I think that it could be better. My only other option for next year is to purchase to 30' flex heads and custom build one 50' flex. If I could modify that honey bee that would be a lot easyer. Mac Don has there flex draper now that looks alright. But why can't a flexible cutter bar be put on to the honey bee draper. If this could be done honeybee would sell like hotcakes to soybean growers all around the world then they could park those auger flex heads in the tree grove. It seems that if I tilted the gaurds down to get closer to the ground all I did is pick rocks. Also on the header adapter I would like to see the trap dore on the bottom go all the way to the front of the center draper. little rocks get under the center draper and stop it in the front and can sometimes be a pain to get out. If that door went all the way under the center draper you could open it easyly and let the rock out. Also maybe a easier was to open that door on the bottom.

 

[land_Surfer]

The lexion isn't the problem when it comes to trying to float a brand of draper head. Draper head float is soley dependent on its adapter, not the combine. If for some reason a draper head is able to integrate into a combine's contouring system, such an option is simply a feature of that header. To expect a brand(s) of combine to be compatible with shortline header manufacturers is asking way too much of a combine manufacturer (they make their own preferred heads to sell with their own combines compatible to their own operating systems). With that being said, the MacDon draper heads are able to tie into the lexion's verticle auto header lift system with their "float optimizer" option. This MacDon feature allows the draper head to laterally tilt (via leaf springs) on its adapter, as well as supporting the reaction of the combine's automatic verticle terrain compensation function (I do not think HoneyBee offers such an integrated feature).

 

[cat_man]

Yes I do understand how a header adapter works and Yes honeybee does utalize a leaf spring suspension system on their adapter. What you don't understand is the Float springs equiped on the hydralic cylinders that lift the feder house are not strong enough to aid in the float of that head. I am sure with a 30' flex on there the spring pressure is more than enough. But hang a 42' on the front which is quite a bit heavier and the you can't adjust your springs enough (On the combine feederhouse) To hold the head up with spring pressure. Yes the honeybee does and excellent job at moving from side to side on its own even with a combine not equiped with an auto contour system. With honeybees adapter there is enough flex in the adapter alone that there is no need for additional help from auto contour cylinders. My promblem still goes back to the combine feeder house float springs

 

[West_Aussie_Hauler]

Just buy a Midwest Draper up to '46 and floats beautifully. leave the other 2 manufacturers way behind. http:__www.washingtonmotors.com.au_

 

[batman]

Where are these made and do they have a website