Combines l3 repair IJIJIJ

[dairyman]

I took all the blades from our fan and weighed them on a kitchen scale. I wrote the weight on each blade in black marker. Then I sorted the blades by weight and put matching weights directly opposite of each other. It has been running that way with no noticeable trouble for about 8 years. The sprocket is loctited to shaft. Heat it a little and use two pipewrenches to remove. I think it is just RH threadIJ Fan drives clean grain and tailings and slack side is bottom of chain, so for sprocket to be self-tightening it has to be RH threadIJ

 

[OKFarmer]

I've heard comments on the fan issue before. Seems like people say don't heat things up too much because there is solder somewhere there on that fanIJIJ I could be COMPlETElY wrong about that, but there was a spark from the rusty recesses of the old noggin' when I read that post. OKFarmer

 

[husker_gleaner]

I took my fan out took it to a machine shop they staightened it and put key ways on the shaft because they were loctited on the shaft before. Some were clamped on mine were not. I never balanced my blades I never woried about it and didnt have any trouble.

 

[NDDan]

Don't quite understand what your explaning is bent on varible. May thing that will go wrong with these is sliding sheave will get to wobbling on inner hub. This is due to short of grease at on time or another. The grease zirk on splined stub for driving header is what gets the grease to sliding hub. This will take a bunch of grease to refill when you put back together. What I don't understand is what you see bent. When assembly has belt removed the spring inside can will usually hold things close enough to straight so you won't see anything abnormal. When varible is still on machine and belt installed you would find larger distance between sheaves at front than you will see in the back. This might of been what you were seeing and this would mean sliding sheave is shot as well as hub it slides on. I will usually mesure how far apart sheaves are apart at front and then rear with belt installed and if difference is more than approx 1_8" you could suspect a problem. This assembly is spring loaded so extreme caution should be used when pressing down to remove snap ring and then letting off the pressure so plate that is on splines comes off and beyond slines until spring load is released. Sliding sheave should just barly rock on hub after spring assembly is removed. As for the fan we number the blades and at least one of the hubs to match. Also good idea to mark all the hubs to install just as they were. Shaft protrusion beyond hub and all hubs loction inportant. Also building it back up with no twist is important. Hubs are loctited to shaft so everything has to be right before loctite sets up. I think you would at least want service manual for this job or better yet would likely be to have dealer help you out. I'm kind of glad these hubs have been clamped to shaft for the last 20ish years so we don't need to monkey with the loctited hubs. Also extremely rare to have any trouble in this area after the clamped hubs and better blades. Best of luck