Combines large P3 sep grate mod

Rolf. Check with Terry at St John Welding. He has lots of experience and good ideas. He also sells a modified cage for Gleaners that you can see on their site.

Rolf, There is no reason why this will not work.The only thing that I can think of is how far down are the wires in the seperator grate.It would be nice to see these no more than 1_4" below surface of crossbars.If you get much deeper than this I could see with your dry conditions a lot of material getting broke up as it goes across sep. grate. If wires are at the 1_4" depth or shallower you should not experience any problems.Again,with long narrow openings you should have less shoe load.I would also put the disrupting bars at easy access because you may not need them or they could be too aggressive and have to be removed.Keep us posted on the outcome. I do have a few customers running this setup in wheat,but it is not their main crop. Good luck, Hyper Harvest II

I like what I hear Hyper saying. Wires no deaper than 1_4". I would prefer wire to be as close as possible to flush with cross bars for our mix of crops and the low narrow wire seperator grate will have wires at 3_8" plus layer of chrome on cross bars. I like the idea of longer slots but do not like material coming up against check or cross bars. Would rather have things flush and then add a flat rasp bar or two if crop needs a rasping. I think a long narrow slot is spot on for getting crop out of cage. I often though of doing that in cage area if I had a problem with crop loss that I couldn't get rid of. I believe I have seen on CIH where they have a long slot with a filler iron that can fill in slot if excess material was getting out of cage. Anyway you could do as Hyper suggests for grate and then if you want raise every other wire or every third wire or every fourth wire ect. We have raised every other wire flush with cross bars on many machines by welding on pieces of 3_8" rod that had been removed from many previous concaves and seperator grates. Haven't been brave enough to cut cross bars and move them but havn't had any good reason to yet. I don't know if you would have the room for a 3_4 rasp bar that we use today on the belly of your machine. I would lean toward an old flat rasp bar or a latter version and cut the leading edge away so it will sit down flat. I like the idea of a wider rasp for the stationary rasp bar like someone was mentioning cuting out every other rasp. Keep us posted.