Combines n7 axle failures

Did you put in a heavery pipe for the pivet tube or find one to put in side itIJ That can brake. Was going down the road came across an old wood brigde half way across the pivot pipe broke out and there I was filling my pants,(not really but it was close) 30 foot drop if the combine did not go straight I was lucky that day.

I have seen the axel break at the tube but never the frame itself. It sounds like the typical scenareo that a lot of Gleaners experience. If you ever have to opportunity to find and buy a 4 wheel assist, do it, you wont be dissapointed. Its size and capacity is much greater and makes the combine handle so much better. It is an asset that you can keep if you trade up to say an R60 or 70 model by switching the machine back to 2WD. Good luck

The pivot pipe itself did not break but the axle beam where it is welded around the pivot is where it broke. But if your pivot tube broke I will definitely find a heavy wall tube to weld inside the original. At least I have been fortunate enough to have the rear axle break in the field at 5 MPH instead of down the road at 23MPH. One thing to share here is before every failure I have had I noticed that the combine became erratic to drive at speeds above 18 MPH. Just something for other people to observe before their axle breaks on them maybe in a more bizarre place than on an old wood bridge. Any more input from the patrons of this site will be greatly appreciated.

You must have the old axle with just one steering cylinder so I would gusset the anchor for steering cylinder and make sure the tie rods are tight in there sockets. Jack up rear frame to grease pivot zirks and spindles from time to time until they are full to be sure grease gets to where it needs to be. A four to six foot strap across the bottom shimmed away an inch or two at the center will surely degree stress on center welds and could do the same along the back. You may be able to install bump bars onto frame also to degrease stress on pivot tube area when one wheel or the others drags hard in hole or whatever. Can't say I've heard of any frame breakage but you best take good look at welds holding pivot bearings on for it sounds like its been tested a bit. Good luck

Sorry for taking this long to reply, had an issue with some oats starting to heat had to look after that first. Yor are absolutely correct this axle has only one steering cylinder and I do check the tie rods and steering ends twice a season. Good idea to jack up the combine when greasing the pivot, when I first got the combine I rebuilt the pivot tube and replaced the pivots bearings and now grease those points every 10 hours. After having the axle break up the center I welded a 3_8"x6" plate from steering stop to steering stop on the under side of the axle beam. Could you elaborate on the bump bar idea I don't quite understand what you are talking about. Thanks for the input.

I once saw some info on a kit available for newer machines. It was a pad between left and right rear frame and axle assembly so axle can only flex a tid bit forward before bumping into bump pad. It may be only for the very rough terrain and maybe more for the RWA machines that are pushing forward with rear axle when engaged. Hard to say if it would benifit 2WD machines unless rear of axle was strengthen quite alot. Of course the tendency of 2WD is to drag wheels rearward. Takeing one tire or the other threw a hole or up a ditch in a hard turn would pull on front of axle framing and push or rear of axle. Heavy strengthening rear with a very heavy pivot tube could utilize bump pads better. I think!!!!!! Take care