You need to shim out helicals and install green stem kit or install bean helical kit. Concave should be OK if true to cylinder. Install forward cylinder bars. Good luck. Dan
Thanks for the info Dan! Just a few questions for you.I'm pretty new to gleaners,so how much do I shim the helicalsIJ Can this be done without rotor removalIJ What does a green stem kit or a bean kit consist ofIJUp here in northeast Alberta we grow primarily cereal grains and canola, the odd field of lentils is tried but I never here the results.
We have local machine shop cut, drill, and twist 1_4" flat iron that will fit inbetween existing helical and cage. We supply longer bolts to hold helical and shim to cage. Green stem kit has extra helicals to add to thresher side and to transition area inbetween thresher and seperator. Bean kit is chromed channel helicals for complete cage. I prefer the bean kit for the toughest conditions but shiming the helicals will help out a bunch. Shiming helicals will cost you quite alot less. Rotor has to be pulled for helical jobs. let me know if we can help. Dan
Will put your shim kit in next spring as cold weather is soon upon us and this would have to be an outside job.All my equipment goes into storage for the winter leaving no room in the shop for the auger to be out to pull the rotor. I will contact you next spring to order those helical shims .
After reading the comments returned to this question I believe no one read your posting completely. I can assume a few things here, if you have installed the Sunny Brook piggy back helicals and followed the directions it would mean you removed the bottom two rows of helicals thus make all forward bars on the rotor a must. Next assuming that you have all Sunny Brook components you probably have a modified concave installed which is 13 bars instead of 8. The proper way to set up this concave is 3_8" clearance at the second bar and 3_16" to 1_4" at the rear. I also assume that when you doubled up your helicals they are in good shape. Hope my suggestions help accelerate your harvest.
Very interesting,I never thought about how the concave was set to the rotor.I will check to verify number of concave bars and setting.Was also running rotor speed at 1200 wereas the neighbor was running at 1050 and had good capacity.
bfarm going by the service manual it is not recommended to run the rotor speed over 1099 rpm or cylinder input damage could result. The top speed of the rotor should be set using shims on the guide pins between the drive sheaves. I also farm in Canada (Saskatchewan EH) and even harvesting flax I find no need to use more than 1050 rpm. What are you harvesting that needs so much rpmIJ Isn't cracking a problem with that much rpmIJ Speak @ you latter.
How's it goinIJ EH! The rotor speed I used was based on my other rotorary's speed.I thought that since my TR worked best at 1200 rpm for wheat that the gleaner was similar. The neighbor with his N6 said he runs his at 1000 but I learnt this after harvest.This what's nice about this web site always something to learn if you ask the right questions.Thanks for the info!