Combines Turrent augers

[hunter]

Our's went out also with, under 800 hours. Was a big job to fix. Would not get another one! When bearing went out it let's the auger drop down and the broke off the shaft and took out the sprockets top and bottem. Almost forgot the uper houseing was ground out and had to be replaced. Takes a lot to fix compaired to the old stile. Would get the 14 inch tube and stop for the 2 min. that it takes to unload if you think you are going to hit something with the auger.

 

[calvin]

Yes, I had trouble with that on a massey 750 back in 84. Always looked to me like a massey auger glued on the side of a Gleaner. Thats why I never used a turrent on a Gleaner. How can anyone take the look of that thing seriously. It looks like crap and is prone to the troubles you are having.

 

[tbran]

the inner housing must be able to flex. There is a proceedure to do this. Check with service. We have had no problem after the larger bolts were installed and torqued properly. Now we know what the others have to live with, huhIJ Swivel is lowest maintainance, turret swivel has advantages and is the only one we can sell to competitive owners - duh

 

[T__langan]

As a very wise man from Iowa, who frequented Ag forums, has said - "Turrets are for tanks, not combines!" Where did Bobby disappear to anyhowIJ What strikes me as a bit odd is a lot of guys want turret unloaders on their combines, but almost all grain carts have "swing out" style unloaders. Now, you are sitting up high in a combine with decent visibility, but limited from a tractor pulling a cart. I suppose it boils down to unloading on the go with combines and clearance issues while grain carts usually sit still.

 

[Silver_Shoes]

On our farm grain quality is important, also simplicity in design is also important. The swivel auger has always satisfied us for those two reasons. We unload on the go and dont seem to have many problems in that area. I know some carts are really up there in the air and there is a need for the turret, but I think if I needed a 800 bushel or larger cart I would rather buy a cart with a drag auger in it so I could keep the cart height down. Honestly I am really glad that Agco still offers the swivel auger because to me it will be a sad day if they ever discontinue the option and just go with a turret design. We never have problems with the swivel and have been totally satisfied knowing that it moves the grain to the cart with less damage and still being a much simpler design. IMHO

 

[Bobby_Greif]

Yes I have said, "Turrets are for tanks, not combines!"

 

[T__langan]

I agree that the Gleaner turret is an eyesore. However, my thinking is that the reasons it's on the outside of the tank are 1. It's a lot easier to manufacture - the turret can be put on any combine coming down the assembly line fairly easily. If it were "built in", it would require quite a bit of modification to the grain tank. And 2. by having the vertical portion of the turret outside the grain tank, you don't lose any tank capacity. As for the looks of it - if we wanted a "pretty" combine, we'd probably chose a green plastic one! Most of us Gleaner people are the types to chose function and practicality over looks. Glad to see you're still kickin', Bobby!

 

[crowfarmer]

Don't forget those battleships. Big turrents, grey paint, built to last. like them Gleaners. Got the M2 ready for corn BobbyIJ

 

[NDDan]

We only have one around hear and we had it apart at 800 hours. It does alot of edible beans and that is hard on flighting. We were taking apart to hard surface flighting. We found bottom bearing and gearbox bearings about out. We can't touch nothing without modifing so we drilled 5_16" hole 2.5" from center of bottom shaft. We did this to help insure any water that gets near bearing has a chance to drain out. We also cut slit flush with bottom area of vertical auger and installed door. We instructed owner to be sure to open door if any chance of getting caught in the rain. Keep the moisture from getting to bearing will prolong life greatly. We installed two sections of the 1_4" flighting and hard surfaced to reduce service period of that area. We drilled and tapped gearbox for grease zirk and instructed owner to keep full of grease if he wants seals and bearing to last longer. We timed horizontal flighting to trail vertical flighting by approx 1_4 turn. School material and service manual seams to suggest ends of flighting should be 180 degree apart. That seamed like 1_2 turn to me. I called service for that didn't seem right to me. They seemed to agree that flighting should trail by more like 1_4 turn. I would ask dealer how he timed and maybe check it out for yourself. Don't know if timing makes any difference or not but surely it must. Maybe someone thats been around these for awhile could comment. Finally we never have had any bolts break. I think it would be of utmost importance to have nuts locked very very well against gearbox. Especially if at least one of the bolts broke flush with gearbox. Also sometimes a guy is better off using grade 5 hardware if there could be some flexing.The more brittle grade 8 wont take much flexing. Good luck