Combines rasp bars

[Farm_Kid2]

For threshing, I like the CIH extenda-wear bars the best. They have a different angle, weigh more, and are hard all the way through.

 

[John_W]

How about some of our host's Gordon BarsIJ Might be a little easier on the seed.

 

[RedHat]

Front face of rasp bars will break or crack due to stones going through the machine. It is recommended to change any broken ones asap, if they come off the rotor they do alot of damage to the concaves_grates_vanes and the chopper when they go out the back.

 

[David]

I have been using the Gordon bars for quite a few years on a 2366 specialty rotor. I am extremely happy with them in corn... I think the grain quality inproved alot when I switched. It doesn't take the green stems through without some rumble and thumping if things are damp. I think maybe the standard specialty setup may handle the tough stuff better. Having said that, I don't think I would want to trade back and not use the Gordon bars because of the other crops they do so well with. Gordon bars are sold in sets that are balanced and should not be a problem with the rotor balance. Good luck!!

 

[Parksy]

Yes you have to try a set of gordon bars even the small set over the concaves (9 I thinkIJ) In wheat and beans they really shine,Can't say I never plugged the 24" rotor with them but very seldom!(probaley had the radio to loud) If you are already replacing, it would be a must for this farm.

 

[Pa__Harvester]

I ran a set of 9 Gordon bars in my 66 for the first this year. I'll never go back. I liked them most for corn, I thought it was much easier to keep the cobs in one piece. For green stem beans I can't say if they were any better or worse. But if you run green stem beans and have a rock trap, contact SUPER-H from a few threads down and talk to him about his razor rock beater. I put one in this past year and it's the single biggest improvement I have ever made to my axial-flow. Difference in green stuff is unbelievable.

 

[JWK]

I have to say the my biggest improvement to my 1660 is putting in a new AFX rotor. I can see that it takes less power by the heat gauge is not as high. I would like to try the rock beater you talk about, Pa.H. but I have always said that the rock trap limits the capacity of the machine. JWK

 

[tbran]

the bars wear on the back side normally in the R series OEM cyl. We usually move them to the lH end and reverse them , take the ones from the end reverse them and install in middle, the reverse the RH bars in the same place.

 

[Greedy_Guts]

I run Gorden bars in England in wheat, barley and canola, they are certainly better than the speciality bars. Just had to weld a small block of steel on the rotor front to balance to within about an ounce. A friend told me to use a broken magnet from a flashing light etc and stick nuts and bolts to it untill it runs nice, then weigh them and cut some metal the same weight and weld it into the same place.