Combines grain bin repairIJ

[brent_56]

My l2 has never worn through because it has very few hours on it but on the M we took a piece of sheet metal and had it bent to the exact curve of the bottom of the grain tank. I would guess it was about 5 ft long in the beginning and then we bent it in the middle. Then we set it in the bottom of the existing tank and used pop rivets to secure it along the top end of the sheet. All you have to do is make sure the auger will not drag on the floor. If you have more questions Feel free to email me. Good luck Brent

 

[soybean99]

try Poly Tech at 1-800-542-7659. They have grain tank auger floor liner for case and john deere in my paper I picked up at farm science review in ohio last fall. I did the sheet metal fix and was not fun. this looks simple if they will make for your AC. bad part is $340-$380

 

[soybean99]

www.polyskid.com

 

[bean_grower]

I did the same thing on our l2. I used some heat duct sheet metal and pop riveted it in place. Just be shure that you hold down the metal with a stick to get it tight to the bottom or the auger will rub and rip it out. Also be sure that you know where the drill is going. I drilled right through the heater hose and had to repair it.

 

[Kevin_Alabama]

I used sheet metal on my l-2 and two M-2's I just measured the bottom part that needed covered and cut out a piece and sled it right in place and pop riveted it, and I welded one in place but it's easier to use pop rivets. It's also easier if you have somebody to hold the metal in place.

 

[Tom_Russell]

If you go to a place that sells steel, it might be helpful to use the correct terminology. If the guy is used to dealing with farmers he might know what you want when you call it tin otherwise it would be better to call it galvanized with the proper gage thickness. I am sorry I dont have any idea what thickness you need but it probably is somewhere in the neighborhood of 16 gage. Therefore, you ask for 16 gage galvanized and you will get the right stuff.

 

[Jimmy]

You can buy premade bin bottoms. The bottom is curved correctly and all the holes for carriage bolts and pop rivets are stamped in. I've done two and think that it's the way to go. To fit it in properly you need to take the auger, drive end and the auger swing out.

 

[T3]

If you are going to keep the combine for a while, spend the extra money and use stainless. All the steps mentioned above will have to take place whatever material you use. I did this several years ago with my M2. In addition to never rusting, the grain bill will clean out almost completely. Good luck as it is not an easy job to do.

 

[mo]

Discovered the other day that there is such a thing as a countersunk pop rivet. -. You should us a 3_16 diameter which is a no. 12 I believe. If the countersunk are unavaliable (you'll probably have to order them) us large headed steel rivets. Measure the thickness of the material to be joined and order the rivet that is the proper length. Proper sizing makes the job easier and the rivets hold better. The hired handed wanted an air pop rivet tool. I thought that was silly but it was Christmas soooo. They are cheap from Harbor Freight and Junk and work great. Position the piece with one hand and BAMMO rivet it with the other. A tool which pays for itself.

 

[kernal]

We use a stainless steel feather sheet for 500 series header.Trim off rear row of holes.Remove bin unloader auger.Make sure you press sheet down to follow contour of bin bottom and pop rivet.This repair has worked well for us and the thin flexible sheet does not allow the auger to scrub it.