Case-IH unloading auger

sharecropper

Guest
#21
It's usually the limit switch on the turret. Get out your WD 40 and free it up so it snaps back on its own.
 

Farm_Kid2

Guest
#22
The ram on the unloading auger doesn't have much leverage at all when folded, so anything that causes friction can keep it in. In addition to the other things to check, see if it is dragging too hard by picking up on it by hand while trying to unfold it. The rod on top can be adjusted so that it drags less. The most likely fix is a lot of grease on a regular basis to keep the ram from stalling out.
 

edo

Guest
#23
last year I bought 1660 in Germany. Someone put additional safety switch in cab probably for prevention of unwanted swing out of unloading auger in road transport (and one for lift_lowering the header). The one for auger is on steering wheel console. Probably this is installed due to law requierments for germany market.
 

All_colours_turned_Yellow

Guest
#24
Im not familiar with these machines but maybe it could be a fuse for the electric over hydraulic valve if it is equipped this way.
 

Bigtrakter

Guest
#25
Edo, Well i have that problem also the header does not pick up ether were the two systems on the same safty swichIJ I do not see anything ovious but i will have to look closer
 

mudflats

Guest
#26
There is a safety switch that if it doesn't read enough engine oil pressure it will disable the header lift. Don't know if the oil pressure gauge can read ok and still have this swith kick out if it malfunctions, never had it happen.
 

brads

Guest
#28
I just replaced the vertical augar tube because the rivets that hold the flange on wore out. Quite a job. Your augar maybe sagging because some the rivets are loose. I would check them out first.
 

George_2

Guest
#29
Had a similar problem this fall after brushing the auger against a small tree branch accidentally with the auger out. Didn't even scratch the paint on the unloading auger tube. However the unloader swing cylinder rod ended up with a slight wow in it. Just enough so it wouldn't retract all the way. Ended up replacing the entire unloader swing cylinder and it works fine now. We also grease the 4 nipples on the swing turret every day.
 

George_2

Guest
#30
Had a similar problem this fall after brushing the auger against a small tree branch accidentally with the auger out. Didn't even scratch the paint on the unloading auger tube. However the unloader swing cylinder rod ended up with a slight wow in it. Just enough so it wouldn't retract all the way. Ended up replacing the entire unloader swing cylinder and it works fine now. We also grease the 4 nipples on the swing turret every day.
 

nebraska_farmer

Guest
#31
thanks guys!!.i went to put it in the shed and couldn't cuz the auger was out to far, my nephew rapped a rope around it and i ran the lever in the cab, it went all the way to the caddle when he pulled the rope. seal on cyl doesn't seem to be leaking from bent shaft, but i'll pull it off anyway to check it. nephew didn't want to have a new job standing back there with a rope. thought that was kinda narrow minded of him!!
 

mo

Guest
#32
I suppose so but I understand that the 14 is not that much quicker than the 12. I wonder how much the speed can be increased before wear or grain damage becomes a problem in wheat. I imagine each crop has a different answer. Maybe a third solution of faster flighting would work. I imagine faster flighting would be higher torque. Which brings up a complaint which is that the factory flighting is not very thick or durable. Yes I know cost and competition but it is still flimsy flighting on a heavy weight machine.
 

NDDan

Guest
#33
I know of a guy that found a wrecked combine with 14" system. He bought the pieces that were different for a 14" system and installed on a 72. I think that is the only way you could justify the change up. The guys we got into 14" systems say there is a noticable increase in output with their crops. Gleaner uses 1_4" thick flighting at all key locations and I believe the bin fill auger is now standard chromed. Main thing I have to complain about on Gleaner flighting is the bottom of bin auger for I believe they should run the flighting closer to bushing support next to universal joint. They could also taper edges of bushing support to smooth out grain flow. We extend the flighting for edible beans for they seem to be one of the worst seeds to get threw transition area. I would also think the turret systems could us a full 1_4" thick flighting vertical auger or chrome it. Catch ya later
 

slims

Guest
#34
we have had welding shops weld on new flighting for us, they can be preety tricky because the welds pull and make the auger hit and they also need to be balanced so they do not shake you out of the cab when unloading. as far as the clean grian chain the paddles are a good idea for not wearing, but most of the ones that i have seen with the harder paddles tend to wear out the elevator fairly easy. you should change your acc. rolls when you can stick a pencil down thru them. once they are beyond that they do not throw the material onto the grain pan as well. also how many hours are on your machineIJ hope this helps!!!
 

NDDan

Guest
#35
Hey slims did you notice below on low power post that you have no coments and somehow my post from another subject ended up there. STRANGE. I hear you on welding new flighting to old shaft or tube. If you don't have very equal welds and even you build a very wobbly auger. We'll weld short piece to repair an auger hear or there. Not worth it for us to screw around to much cutting off and replaceing complete flighting. Taking care to keep welds even and if you have the spare time it may be worth it for some to attempt the flighting only!!!!
 

bh

Guest
#36
Had the unloading auger flighting replaced once on an F3. I personally would never do that again. The auger was not balanced and hit inside the tube. I suppose if someone could balance the auger and make sure it was straight that would be okay, but might cost as much as a new auger. I have always been curious about the poly paddle chains, but could never get up the never to try one. Always wondered if they were so much better why the factory wouldn't use them. My two cents. bh
 

slims

Guest
#37
yeah that is kind of weird, i was going to say to check the piece of 1_8 pipe that screws into the aneroid. i have saw a few of these crack or completely break off.
 

NDDan

Guest
#38
Yes for sure any leak after the intake manifold is bad bad bad. There is an orfice in the fitting at intake manifold that does not allow any room for escaping air after it. A lose of air will result in lose of signal to fuel aneroid and unable to signal turbo wastegate to start wasteing the excess boost. Take care
 

R_O_M

Guest
#39
If the grain tank section of the unloader auger is in good order, take it out and hard surface the outer 2 inches of the circumference using powder hard facing material and the gas torch. Its not difficult, just time consuming but it will treble or more, the life of the flighting. Do the grain augers under the sieves too if you are looking for longetivity. To get them out, grind off the pop rivets holding the bottom of the elevators on and when replacing use 5mm bolts.
 

Booth_Farms

Guest
#40
Sorry I have been so long in responding but have been trying to get the first cutting of hay up. I dont think I ever have got so much hay wet as we have this year. I need to get done, mow the CRP and start working on the combine. My machine has 1314 seperator hours and 1845 engine hours. I pulled the rotor Saturday and it looks like I need to install some new helicals, a few new bars etc. Thanks for the comments.
 
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