Combines header control

[Tom_Russell]

Thanks, Brian. I will print your post and run through the entire procedure again when the sun shines. The real test will be when I get in the field and try each position. In the past 2 positions would work depending on where I set the turnbuckle. For example, low and intermediate might work fine until I rotate the turnbuckle a tad. Then low and high will work. I always have low but intermediate and high drop out depending on where I set the turnbuckle. I have no trouble getting all 3 to work in the yard but one position will drop out when I get to the field. This is my second head on a different combine that has been this way so it has to be related to something I am doing if others can get all 3 positions to work satisfactorily. We are getting rain again so it will probably be a few days before the yard is dry enough to check it out. Tom in MN

 

[rforro]

Tom sounds to me like your turnbuckle rod is in the wrong holes. look at your owners manual to find correct holes and length to start with. Randy

 

[Brian]

I took a look at our 320 today. Rod is is top hole and turnbuckle is as tight as one can get. I know this setting is probably not recommended because it forces the header to run flatter (improves feeding)than it should thus increasing the chance of damage if one should hit an obstruction...I believe we've limited the amount the head can flex upward with this setup.

 

[Tom_Russell]

Yes, the turnbuckle is in the wrong holes by choice I looked at the head yesterday afternoon and found there are 3 holes in the rockshaft lever and 3 holes in the plastic thing. . We have tried many combinations and decided the bottom hole in the rockshaft lever and the bottom hole in the clear plastic thing on the 3-position switch keep the head close to the ground. As Brian said, this setting allows the head to run flatter, but it also increases the chance of causing damage if the sickle hits an obstruction. You guys know what I am talking about when I say I am tired of playing around with it. 1 setting that works consistently is better than 3 that only work intermittently. I can live without the mid and upper positions, but the lower position is the one we need for beans and it works all the time. On the other hand, we paid for 3 positions and would like all 3 to work consistently. Oh well, rains are making the crop look good. Combining is still a month away. Tom in MN

 

[shorthair]

Bill, e mail me.

 

[hunter]

In the manual there is a way to manully adjust the right-left start postion to straighten the head. good luck!

 

[hunter]

In the manual there is a way to manully adjust the right-left start postion to straighten the head. good luck!

 

[tbran]

measure the volts on the potentiometers. One is out of range. Strive for 1-5 V min to max. The left hand unit hits the frame. We ben or nitch the frame to allow free full movement of the poteniometer arm. Now reset the ahhc and lat tilt per op man sequence. Works great, less digging.

 

[ohio_farm_boy]

I will check the potentiometer tonight ,but how does the up and down work ok, don't they use the same ones IJ we have already tried resetting by the book it didnt seem to help, the lateral would work until you picked the head up on the end then it would flop to the right, didnt try letting it back down to see if it would correct itself but it shouldnt do what it is doing.

 

[tbran]

the program is different for the lat tilt. When the voltage on BOTH sides increases it will lift, when only one side increases it tilts , there is a new program for the new 5 series that resets the parameters for them. Don't think the software is out for the older series. Check with local dealer and we should all request upgrade to older machines. FINAllY have dealer put a laptop on your machine. It can be fine tuned to different sensitivities and this might fix your problem along with balancing your voltages.