Combines feeder chain

[oddy]

There is a "shock kit" available in the after market that may prevent the chain from jumping.

 

[Tom_Russell]

If the chain and sprockets are not worn out, a guy should loosen all the bolts, roll it over a few times by hand to get everything to center itself, and then torque the bolts. If parts are worn out, now is the time to replace them. Tom in MN

 

[Chad]

check out www.loewenmfg.com - they have an aftermarket shock kit.

 

[mo]

check that the sprockets are in time. 'can be off 1_2 turn and therefore off 1_2 teeth and 'never see it. 'use rubber shoe bushing on a ready bolt to make tightener on front drum. tighten rubber bushing against drum tightener until it begins to mushroom. Good luck

 

[Dan]

In what cropIJ If it is in corn he must not have the sprocket stripper installed. The stripper is a three piece iron assembly that fastens directly in front of the drive sprockets. Does he have a rock sump installedIJ Or a 1"X1" square bar fastened to rock doorIJ Or just a flat rock door with no hump fastened to itIJ If it isn't the corn cobs getting inbetween the sprocket and chain it has to be a bad transision between the feed chain and cylinder. I prefer the hump fastened to rock door to make the best transition possible. Be sure he is running fair cylinder bars and running gap close enough to get good suction at cylinder. Be sure helicals are good enough to move the material toward seperator side to prevent to much material coming right back to feed chain. Normally that would pop open the trap door if he hasn't overtightened it or installed rock sump kit. Also extending third helical from gearbox over top left corner of feeder opening will reduce load on the left side of feed chain. It is extra important if helical is extended to use the feed chain stripper when in corn for there is less room for chain to jump a cog. If there is not room for chain to jump a cog it can catch the chain slat and bend it, especially on the small P3s. let us know what you find out. Hope that helps.

 

[Dan]

Rubber bushings. Interesting idea. I suppose that is preventing tention drum from giving enough for the chain to get over a cog. That sounds like a good idea but it could be covering up the main problem. I have tightened rear feed chain beyond specs not to hold it onto sprocket teeth tighter but to prevent chain from bowing up to high half way between tention drum and drive sprocket. With massive straw intake and the chain bows up to much the straw will stall which will stall the front feed not the back. Funny how that works but tightening the chain makes all the difference. I suppose the rubber bushings would act similiarly for they would only squish so much. Don't forget the first most important thing is feeder shocks.

 

[Tom_Russell]

Good point about sprockets. Some after market sprockets are not symmetrical so one of the sprockets is always out of time. You really have to think about this one, but simply stated, one outer sprocket has to be reversed on the hex shaft to get close enough to the sidewall. That reversed sprocket will be out of time unless all 3 are symmetrical. Clear as mudIJ Tom in MN

 

[red_leaf]

I am looking at a new feeder chain as well I am leaning toward a plastic coated spring steel manufactured by Harvest Services. Any comments from someone with experience with one of these would be appreciated. The plastic coated is supposed to be much quieter and less abrasive on the feeder house. If you go for triple chain be sure to get the hexagonal shaft with integrated sprockets or you will break the shaft in your feeder house

 

[Unit_2]

bj, When I ran 1688s I never had any feeding problems, never had to replace a feederhouse bottom in over 2000 rotor hours, and never saw anything wrong with the two chain feeder chain. When I had 2188s with the three chain feeder I had to replace the feederhouse bottoms on both machines at about 1500 rotor hrs. and I could not see that the feeding was any better than the 1688s with the two chains. It seems like with the three chains the feeder chain has to be kept so tight to keep the middle chain from wearing a hole in the feederhouse bottom right below the feeder drum. If feeding is a problem get a chain with serrated slats, but I would stay with the two chain feeder. K.A.

 

[vaughn]

Waste of money putting a three chain on when you can convert the feed drum with an aftermarket upgrade made here in Australia. Contact stevden@wimmera.com.au